July 25, 2012

Oregon Vistas and Vineyards - Part II

For our next three days, we made Newport and the Ocean House Bed and Breakfast our base. Great choice. Newport’s central location makes it easy to explore back to the north around tiny Depoe Bayand southward toward Florence.

Everyone has their personal stay styles. We like the ambience, privacy and camaraderie of bed & breakfast inns. Ocean House ranked right at the top of our best B&B list. Request the Willamette Room. It was tempting not to leave this spacious, beautifully-decorated room with its sumptuous bed, large bath, fireplace and private solarium overlooking the sea.

Ocean House owners Dawn and Craig Lodge run a delightful lodge...slight play on words. Complimentary wines were waiting on our arrival and we were ready for a glass of two and a stroll down the beach to unwind the kinks from the drive. Following the private trail down to explore the wide expanse of sandy beach became a daily beachcombing ritual and intimate seating areas tucked among the manicured grounds overlooking the ocean were perfect perches for raising a toast to sunset each evening. It doesn’t get much better than this! Bountiful breakfasts and  afternoon super-sized cookies were worth every calorie. And, sightseeing and dining recommendations were right on track.

After a goodnight’s sleep, we headed back north a few miles to tiny Depoe Bay. Claiming the world’s smallest navigable harbor, DepoeBay is the launching point for whale watching cruises and fishing. Stroll Main Street and watch the spouting horns across Hwy. 101. Each time a wave rolls hits the holes in the basalt rocks, geysers erupt. Don’t get too close unless you want a cold shower. Tip: Learn about whales and how to spot them at the Whale WatchingCenter, but skip whale watching cruises if seasickness is a problem. They can be spotted from shoreline viewpoints, especially during their fall and spring migration. And, don’t miss lunch or a sunset dinner with a side of Wow Factor views as Tidal Raves in Depoe Bay.

Returning from DepoeBay to Newport, detour off Hwy 101 along for Otter Crest Scenic Loop. This little one-way road offered some of the best photographic moments along the coast. Follow the signs for Cape Foulweather, so named by Capt. James Cook in 1778 because of its infamous winds and fog. Fortunately for us, it did not live up to its name. We were blessed with blue skies and visibility for over 100 miles up and down the coast. Check out The Lookout Observatory hanging to the cliffside 500 feet above the crashing waves. (It is actually a gift shop with great views, unique stock and with surprisingly good prices). The Devil’s Punchbowl State Natural Area is also located along the Loop. A former large collapsed sea cave, the Punchbowl becomes a boiling cauldron as the sea rushes in and out. Follow the path around the natural area and at low tide scamper down the trail to explore tidal pools and view the inside of the Punchbowl. Warning: Don’t try this during an incoming tide. Bears repeating, heed all posted warnings for sneaker waves (large rogue waves) and submerged logs.
It’s hard to pick a single favorite on a sensory overload trip like this one. However, Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area gets our vote. Managed by the Bureau of Land Management, the park offers close-up views of sea lions sunning on the rocks, nesting seabirds and tidal pools teeming with a rainbow of colorful marine life. Get an orientation on the park at the Interpretative Center. Follow the well-marked trail to Cobble Beach. Heads Up: VisitingCobble Beach requires a strenuous climb down steep cliffside paths and steps. Be sure you are up to the climb back to the top before heading for the bottom. Wear sturdy water-proof shoes. The beach is completely covered with layers of palm-sized cobblestones that make walking a challenge. And, most importantly, check the tide schedule. Visiting at low tide is a must. Scampering over the slippery rocks to view the tide pools requires dexterity, but the reward is views of amazing large live starfish in a rainbow of colors, sea anemones, sea slugs and limpets. Avoid walking on live mussel beds covering the top of many rocks.
If Cobble Beach proves too strenuous, drive to the parking area at Quarry Cove, a manmade tide pool that is accessible for physically-challenged travelers and families with small children. Request admittance beyond the barricade from the park ranger.

Get a fill of the tidal pools before visiting Yaquina Head Lighthouse, the tallest, still active beacon on the Oregon Coast. Take the tour for interesting lighthouse lore. Snap the best images of Yaquina Head from below on CobbleBeach and or the observation point. A $7 park pass per car is valid for three days. You will probably want to return and watch the sun paint its masterpiece across the rocks and waves at sunset.

Newport is also home of the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, a short walk from the harbor front. Not-to-be-missed: The Oregon Coast Aquarium, rated as one of the top aquariums in the country. Remember Keiko, the star of Free Willy. This was Keiko’s home. Agate Beach State Recreation Site attracts clam diggers and surfers. Best beachcombing for agates is Moolack Beach. And, be sure to snap a shot of the famous Yaquina Bay Bridge (one of America’s most photographed bridges) silhouetted against waning light at twilight. And, enjoy dinner along the harbor front at Local Ocean Seafoods.

Here’s where our plan changed. We are big believers in saving time for serendipity. More to come...

No comments: