In Isaac's Crosshairs

A Dark and Stormy Sea

It's that time of year in Florida. Peak of hurricane season and looks like TS Issac...soon to be Hurricane Isaac... has us in his sights for late Tuesday night or wee hours Wednesday. Preparations in progress to batten down and  shelter in place...at least for now. Thought you might enjoy this photo of one of our past unwanted visitors...Tropical Storm Arlene.

Save Time for Serendipity

In the 1969 movie, “If It’s Tuesday, Then It Must Be Belgium,” a group of mismatched American tourists dash around Europe in a whirlwind tour for 18 days determined to see it all and do it all.  Today, travel is even more hectic. The World Wide Web overwhelms us with must-see and must-do options, near and far. In an effort to say “been-there-done-that,” travelers frantically check off guidebook lists of historic and hip new hotspots.  Museums, monuments, memorials and meals become a blur. Castles and cathedrals begin to look alike. Back home comes the familiar refrain, “We need a vacation to get over our vacation.”

No matter where in the world you are, there are 1,440 minutes in a day. It pays to use these minutes wisely. Hit the pause button. Hop off the tour bus. Get out from behind the wheel.  I am not suggesting skipping a walk on the Great Wall in China, not soaring to the top of the Eiffel Tower or passing on the Pyramids. Timeless treasures naturally top travel lists. However, between must-sees, save time for serendipity – unexpected moments and unsought treasures that linger in the heart and soul.

Search out serendipity. Adopt the “slow travel and slow food” philosophy. Here are a few of our favorite ways to seek and savor serendipity.

·        Research destination calendar of events and attend a festival, lecture, play or concert featuring local talent.

·       Shop local markets and stock up on tempting and unfamiliar treats. In Paris, we purchased picnic treats at specialty markets and bakeries on tiny side streets near our hotel. We spread our feast and popped a bottle of champagne in Parc du Champ de Mars at the base of the Eiffel Tower for an afternoon. What a perfect day!  

·       Learn a new skill. Take a class at a local university or a cooking class at a local restaurant. Each time I prepare a recipe acquired during travel, it brings back memories.

·       Stay at a bed and breakfast that offers opportunities to interact with the owner and other guests at breakfast or during an afternoon wine and cheese get-together.

·        Hire a local guide and see their world from their perspective. We hired a private guide in Chile to kill 12 hours between disembarkation from a cruise in Valparaiso and our flight out of Santiago. Tours by Hector far exceeded our expectations and we still keep in touch with owner, Hector Medina.

·        Walk whenever possible. Check safe areas and neighborhoods to avoid with the hotel staff or tourism bureau.  Ever walked across the Brooklyn Bridge? It’s one of the best ways to soak in city views and learn about the history of this remarkable landmark. Another Big Apple treat: A walking and tasting tour in Greenwich Village by Foods of New York.

·       Eat where the locals do and strike up a conversation. On a cruise around the Mediterranean several years ago, we docked in Kusadasi after several months of travel warnings had prevented port calls. Our plan was a full-day excursion to nearby Ephesus, but after successive ports we were ready for a break from crowded bus tours. We made a spontaneous decision to spend a leisurely morning meandering the cobblestoned streets of Kusadasi and exploring its tiny shops and markets. Lunch at a local restaurant on the harbor front was a serendipity pleasure. Over incredibly prepared seafood fresh from a tableside tank and a bottle of local no-name “jug wine,” time stood still. We spent several hours sharing experiences of our distinctively different worlds with the restaurant owner and his family. We “connected” with our destination. It was one of the most memorable and meaningful moments of our voyage.

 Any serendipity secrets to share?

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Oregon Vistas and Vineyards - The End

Headed inland to Willamette Valley Wine Country. Note: Willamette is pronounced (wih-lam-it rhymes with dammit) and folks around there are sensitive about it. Picture hills carpeted with grape vines in varying stages of growth from seedlings to 40 year-old vines. In summer, an abundance of roadside produce stands offer baskets of hazelnuts, raspberries, strawberries, cherries, plums and more.In late fall, enjoy the grape harvesting, orchards loaded with hazelnuts, filberts and walnuts and a colorful palette of fall foliage.

Our last two Oregon nights were at Wine Country Farm in the heart of Willamette Valley. Thanks to GPS and MapQuest we arrived uneventfully. Listed in 1001 Places to See Before You Die, Wine Country Farm perches at the top of rolling hills amid acres of vineyards. Reminiscent of a French wine country villa, Wine Country Farm is actually a working winery and Arabian horse farm as well as a welcoming and well-run bed & breakfast. (Average room rate around $180.) Owner Joan Davenport is well-traveled and colorful. Her home is filled with treasures from round the world. Mornings are ushered in with tempting aromas of Joan’s gourmet breakfast wafting through the house. Again, a bountiful breakfast served at 9 a.m.makes lunch unnecessary and fortifies the stomach for sipping wine mid-morning. Wraparound decks, balconies and outdoor gazebos showcase sweeping vistas of the vineyards and valley and guests tend to gather and share their favorite local wines in the afternoon.

After sampling the vinos of Wine Country Farm, we visited neighboring wineries. Bonus: Counting Wine Country Farm, there are six wineries are within walking distance. Hank got a break from being designated driver. Stroll up the gravel roads and through the vineyards to sample award-winning pinot noirs, pinot gris and chardonnay vintages at Domaine Drouhin,Domaine Serene, Vista Hills, White Rose and Winter’s Hill. Nearby, check out Torii Mor Winery and bang the gong in the Japanese Garden’s for good luck. Eyrie Vineyards, Rex Hill, Ponzia nd Erath are among the oldest wineries in the Dundee, Newberg and McMinnville area and worth a visit. However, our personal pick: De Ponte.

There are more than 100 wineries only minutes apart in Yamhill County. Pace yourself. So much wine, so little time. Select a designated driver or go in style via limo with Willamette Valley Limousine or Insiders Wine Tour. Heads Up: Many wineries and a large number of the best restaurants are closed on Sunday and Monday. Don’t believe guidebooks that say open daily.  Call and confirm tasting days and hours to avoid disappointment.

When it’s time to take a break from wine, step back in time at Evergreen Aviation Museum in McMinnville. Howard Hughes’s legendary Spruce Goose flying boat is the centerpiece of the massive aviation hall. Tucked under its wings and hanging from the ceiling are hundreds of notable aircraft and exhibits spanning aviation history. An adjacent building houses space exhibits and a third facility is an IMAX theatre. A dozen or more airplanes, including the sleek sneaky SR-71 Blackbird spy plane dot the grounds. Volunteers working in the museum were knowledgeable and helpful. There’s even an on-site winery touting “Spruce Goose” wines and free tastings. Unfortunately, it was the exception. The hostess for the tasting was (a) having a bad day or (b) just hates people. Recommendation: Enjoy the great exhibits and IMAX and skip the wines.

Too soon our vistas and vineyards week was over and we are headed back home to Florida. There are been-there-done-that places we enjoy, but never return to. Then, there are places that beckon us back time and time again. No doubt we will return for more Oregon vistas and vineyards.

Oregon Vistas and Vineyards - Part III

We initially intended to head south to Florence and the Oregon Dunes for a full day; however, there was so much to enjoy in the Newport area and at Ocean House that we decided to save the South Coast for another trip. On our final night, we enjoyed our own Dungeness Crab feast with all the trimmings and wine compliments of Ocean House on the patio overlooking the cove.

Note: It was just 136 miles from Astoria to Ocean House and with stops it took eight hours of white-knuckle driving for much for much of the way.Continuing south to Brooking on the California lines offers equally dramatic scenery and interesting stopover and another 200 miles behind the wheel. Next trip.  Now it is time to head inland for the vineyards.

Oregon Vistas and Vineyards - Part II

For our next three days, we made Newport and the Ocean House Bed and Breakfast our base. Great choice. Newport’s central location makes it easy to explore back to the north around tiny Depoe Bayand southward toward Florence.

Everyone has their personal stay styles. We like the ambience, privacy and camaraderie of bed & breakfast inns. Ocean House ranked right at the top of our best B&B list. Request the Willamette Room. It was tempting not to leave this spacious, beautifully-decorated room with its sumptuous bed, large bath, fireplace and private solarium overlooking the sea.

Ocean House owners Dawn and Craig Lodge run a delightful lodge...slight play on words. Complimentary wines were waiting on our arrival and we were ready for a glass of two and a stroll down the beach to unwind the kinks from the drive. Following the private trail down to explore the wide expanse of sandy beach became a daily beachcombing ritual and intimate seating areas tucked among the manicured grounds overlooking the ocean were perfect perches for raising a toast to sunset each evening. It doesn’t get much better than this! Bountiful breakfasts and  afternoon super-sized cookies were worth every calorie. And, sightseeing and dining recommendations were right on track.

After a goodnight’s sleep, we headed back north a few miles to tiny Depoe Bay. Claiming the world’s smallest navigable harbor, DepoeBay is the launching point for whale watching cruises and fishing. Stroll Main Street and watch the spouting horns across Hwy. 101. Each time a wave rolls hits the holes in the basalt rocks, geysers erupt. Don’t get too close unless you want a cold shower. Tip: Learn about whales and how to spot them at the Whale WatchingCenter, but skip whale watching cruises if seasickness is a problem. They can be spotted from shoreline viewpoints, especially during their fall and spring migration. And, don’t miss lunch or a sunset dinner with a side of Wow Factor views as Tidal Raves in Depoe Bay.

Returning from DepoeBay to Newport, detour off Hwy 101 along for Otter Crest Scenic Loop. This little one-way road offered some of the best photographic moments along the coast. Follow the signs for Cape Foulweather, so named by Capt. James Cook in 1778 because of its infamous winds and fog. Fortunately for us, it did not live up to its name. We were blessed with blue skies and visibility for over 100 miles up and down the coast. Check out The Lookout Observatory hanging to the cliffside 500 feet above the crashing waves. (It is actually a gift shop with great views, unique stock and with surprisingly good prices). The Devil’s Punchbowl State Natural Area is also located along the Loop. A former large collapsed sea cave, the Punchbowl becomes a boiling cauldron as the sea rushes in and out. Follow the path around the natural area and at low tide scamper down the trail to explore tidal pools and view the inside of the Punchbowl. Warning: Don’t try this during an incoming tide. Bears repeating, heed all posted warnings for sneaker waves (large rogue waves) and submerged logs.

It’s hard to pick a single favorite on a sensory overload trip like this one. However, Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area gets our vote. Managed by the Bureau of Land Management, the park offers close-up views of sea lions sunning on the rocks, nesting seabirds and tidal pools teeming with a rainbow of colorful marine life. Get an orientation on the park at the Interpretative Center. Follow the well-marked trail to Cobble Beach. Heads Up: VisitingCobble Beach requires a strenuous climb down steep cliffside paths and steps. Be sure you are up to the climb back to the top before heading for the bottom. Wear sturdy water-proof shoes. The beach is completely covered with layers of palm-sized cobblestones that make walking a challenge. And, most importantly, check the tide schedule. Visiting at low tide is a must. Scampering over the slippery rocks to view the tide pools requires dexterity, but the reward is views of amazing large live starfish in a rainbow of colors, sea anemones, sea slugs and limpets. Avoid walking on live mussel beds covering the top of many rocks.

If Cobble Beach proves too strenuous, drive to the parking area at Quarry Cove, a manmade tide pool that is accessible for physically-challenged travelers and families with small children. Request admittance beyond the barricade from the park ranger.

Get a fill of the tidal pools before visiting Yaquina Head Lighthouse, the tallest, still active beacon on the Oregon Coast. Take the tour for interesting lighthouse lore. Snap the best images of Yaquina Head from below on CobbleBeach and or the observation point. A $7 park pass per car is valid for three days. You will probably want to return and watch the sun paint its masterpiece across the rocks and waves at sunset.

Newport is also home of the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, a short walk from the harbor front. Not-to-be-missed: The Oregon Coast Aquarium, rated as one of the top aquariums in the country. Remember Keiko, the star of Free Willy. This was Keiko’s home. Agate Beach State Recreation Site attracts clam diggers and surfers. Best beachcombing for agates is Moolack Beach. And, be sure to snap a shot of the famous Yaquina Bay Bridge (one of America’s most photographed bridges) silhouetted against waning light at twilight. And, enjoy dinner along the harbor front at Local Ocean Seafoods.

Here’s where our plan changed. We are big believers in saving time for serendipity. More to come...

Oregon Vistas and Vineyards

We were ready for an escape from Florida’s stifling heat and humidity and the Oregon coast seemed just the place for a change of pace. Why Oregon? We’ve never been there and difficult-to-come-by frequent flyer seats were available to Portland International Airport on short notice. Serendipity. Our goals were three-fold: Savor the dramatic scenery, Oregon’s seafood bounty and as many award-winning pinot noirs as time and tolerance permit. Some trips are destined to be perfect from start to finish. So it was with our vistas and vineyards journey, come along for a sample.

                                                   
Our sojourn began at the starting point of Highway 101, the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway in Astoria, Oregon. When it comes to preserving and sharing their coastal treasures, Oregon does it right. Around 80 state and national parks, recreation areas and scenic overlooks and nine historic lighthouses line Highway 101. Well-maintained hiking trails lead to quiet walks through lush forests. Each beach burg boasts a distinctive personality and pleasures. And, state statutes ensure public access to all Oregon beaches along the 363 mile coastline.

Astoria lays claim to the title of oldest settlement west of the Rockies. Charming Victorian-style home cling to the hillsides in a rainbow of colors. The 360˚ view from the Astoria Column atop Coxcomb Hill is the first of many photographic moments (must admit I did whine a bit about those 164 steps to the top). Also worth a visit in Astoria: The top-rated Columbia River Maritime Museum.

Next stop Seaside, 17 miles south. Unlike over-developed, cookie-cutter condo-lined shores, Seaside is an old-fashioned beach town. Life comes nice and easy here and a big day in town is a stroll along the oceanfront Promenade while munching saltwater taffy. On impulse, we picked up steamed crab and all the trimmings for a seafood feast at Bell Buoy Crab Company figuring we would stumble on the perfect picnic spot along the way.

Again, serendipity came through. Back on Highway 101 we spotted signs for Ecola State Park, just north of Cannon Beach. There’s much to be said about spreading out a picnic on a rocky crag hundreds of feet above the sea on a beautiful day. It is a sure cure for real-world doldrums. The weather gods were kind. We enjoyed a clear day with perfect picture-postcard views of famous Haystack Rock and “Terrible Tilly” lighthouse perched on an inaccessible rocky crag at sea. June seems to be a relatively dry month with minimal fog, mild temperatures and how humidity.

From Ecola it was just minutes to Cannon Beach. Thus far, this drive was much easier than anticipated; in spite of frequent signs warning of falling rocks, tsunami zones, elk and deer crossings, and S-curves. Of course, I am not the one doing the driving. My husband, Hank, is the intrepid driver.  We have been on the road almost four hours since leaving Portland and its still 112 miles to our bed and breakfast in Newport. Don’t think we missed many scenic overlooks, but time is flying and the going is slow.  Next trip, we would overnight in Cannon Beach at the romantic Stephanie Inn and spend a little down time on the beach, up-close-and-personal with Haystack Rock rather than pushing onward.

Leaving Cannon Beach, Highway 101 passes through the tiny bay-front communities of Manzanita, Wheeler and Garibaldi before turning inland through forests and farmland of Tillamook County. Now, the trip turned tedious for us. One S-curve after the other slowed our journey and the scenery changed from coastal views to farmland and cows. Cows outnumber people here. Tillamook is hyped as the home of Tillamook Cheese Factory with free tours and tastings. We got a quick view of the displays and production line and snagged a taste of two (minimal offerings) before getting back on the road. The factory and deli are very crowded, but it was an entertaining road break. It’s beginning to look like we won’t make happy hour in Newport unless we move along.

Outside Tillamook, follow the signs to detour west off Highway 101 along the Three Capes Scenic Loop that winds past three must-see-per-guidebooks state parks. First stop: Cape Meares State Park. Climb a measly 28 steps (what a relief) to the top of the beautifully restored Cape Meares Lighthouse. It may be the shortest lighthouse in Oregon, but perched on a bluff high above the sea, the view is mighty. It got our vote as a trip favorite. Next, we skipped the 2 1/2 mile hike at nearby Cape Lookout State Park and stopped at Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area. Time it right and you might catch sight of fishing dories launching right from the beach or barreling onto the beach at full speed in order to stop high up on the beach. It is a sight to behold.

Back on Hwy. 101, rolled into Lincoln City and we were officially on the Central Oregon Coast. Lincoln City, “the best kite-flying spot in North America.” Dozens of kites soared above the beach. If the drive is starting to get to you. Stay over at The Starfish Manor Hotel and spurge for a suite with an oceanfront balcony whirlpool to soak out the kinks. If you decide to hang out a while, buy a snazzy read-to-fly kite at Catch the Wind. Give Lady Luck a whirl at Chinook Winds Casino or shop for bargains at Tanger Outlet Center. After some debate, we decided to forge ahead and try to make Newport by 5 p.m. It’s only 25 miles away.  

Check back tomorrow for three days at Ocean House Bed & Breakfast.