We were ready for an escape from Florida’s stifling heat and humidity and the
Oregon coast
seemed just the place for a change of pace. Why Oregon? We’ve never been there and
difficult-to-come-by frequent flyer seats were available to Portland International
Airport on short notice. Serendipity.
Our goals were three-fold: Savor the dramatic scenery, Oregon’s seafood bounty and as many
award-winning pinot noirs as time and tolerance permit. Some trips are destined
to be perfect from start to finish. So it was with our vistas and vineyards
journey, come along for a sample.
Our sojourn began at the starting point of Highway 101, the
Pacific Coast Scenic Byway in
Astoria,
Oregon. When it comes to
preserving and sharing their coastal treasures,
Oregon does it right. Around 80 state and
national parks, recreation areas and scenic overlooks and nine historic
lighthouses line Highway 101. Well-maintained hiking trails lead to quiet walks
through lush forests. Each beach burg boasts a distinctive personality and
pleasures. And, state statutes ensure public access to all
Oregon beaches along the 363 mile coastline.
Astoria
lays claim to the title of oldest settlement west of the Rockies.
Charming Victorian-style home cling to the hillsides in a rainbow of colors.
The 360˚ view from the Astoria Column atop Coxcomb Hill is the first of many
photographic moments (must admit I did whine a bit about those 164 steps to the
top). Also worth a visit in Astoria:
The top-rated Columbia River
Maritime Museum.
Next stop
Seaside,
17 miles south. Unlike over-developed, cookie-cutter condo-lined shores,
Seaside is an
old-fashioned beach town. Life comes nice and easy here and a big day in town is
a stroll along the oceanfront Promenade while munching saltwater taffy. On
impulse, we picked up steamed crab and all the trimmings for a seafood feast at
Bell Buoy Crab Company figuring we would stumble on the perfect picnic spot along
the way.
Again, serendipity came through. Back on Highway 101 we spotted
signs for
Ecola State Park, just north of
Cannon Beach.
There’s much to be said about spreading out a picnic on a rocky crag hundreds
of feet above the sea on a beautiful day. It is a sure cure for real-world doldrums.
The weather gods were kind. We enjoyed a clear day with perfect picture-postcard
views of famous Haystack Rock and “Terrible Tilly” lighthouse perched on an
inaccessible rocky crag at sea. June seems to be a relatively dry month with
minimal fog, mild temperatures and how humidity.
From Ecola it was just minutes to Cannon Beach.
Thus far, this drive was much easier than anticipated; in spite of frequent
signs warning of falling rocks, tsunami zones, elk and deer crossings, and
S-curves. Of course, I am not the one doing the driving. My husband, Hank, is
the intrepid driver. We have been on the
road almost four hours since leaving Portland
and its still 112 miles to our bed and breakfast in Newport. Don’t think we missed many scenic
overlooks, but time is flying and the going is slow. Next trip, we would overnight in Cannon Beach
at the romantic Stephanie
Inn and spend a little
down time on the beach, up-close-and-personal with Haystack Rock rather than
pushing onward.
Leaving Cannon
Beach, Highway 101 passes
through the tiny bay-front communities of Manzanita, Wheeler and Garibaldi
before turning inland through forests and farmland of Tillamook County.
Now, the trip turned tedious for us. One S-curve after the other slowed our
journey and the scenery changed from coastal views to farmland and cows. Cows
outnumber people here. Tillamook is hyped as the home of Tillamook Cheese
Factory with free tours and tastings. We got a quick view of the displays and
production line and snagged a taste of two (minimal offerings) before getting
back on the road. The factory and deli are very crowded, but it was an
entertaining road break. It’s beginning to look like we won’t make happy hour
in Newport
unless we move along.
Outside Tillamook, follow the signs to detour west off
Highway 101 along the
Three Capes Scenic Loop that winds past three must-see-per-guidebooks
state parks. First stop:
Cape
Meares State
Park. Climb a measly 28 steps (what a relief) to
the top of the beautifully restored Cape Meares Lighthouse. It may be the
shortest lighthouse in
Oregon,
but perched on a bluff high above the sea, the view is mighty. It got our vote
as a trip favorite. Next, we skipped the 2 1/2 mile hike at nearby
Cape Lookout State Park and stopped at Cape Kiwanda
State Natural Area. Time it right and you might catch sight of fishing dories
launching right from the beach or barreling onto the beach at full speed in
order to stop high up on the beach. It is a sight to behold.
Back on Hwy. 101, rolled into Lincoln City
and we were officially on the Central
Oregon Coast.
Lincoln City,
“the best kite-flying spot in North America.” Dozens
of kites soared above the beach. If the drive is starting to get to you. Stay
over at The Starfish Manor Hotel and spurge for a suite with an oceanfront
balcony whirlpool to soak out the kinks. If you decide to hang out a while, buy
a snazzy read-to-fly kite at Catch the Wind. Give Lady Luck a whirl at Chinook
Winds Casino or shop for bargains at Tanger
Outlet Center.
After some debate, we decided to forge ahead and try to make Newport by 5 p.m. It’s only 25 miles away.
Check back tomorrow for three days at Ocean House Bed & Breakfast.
