Oregon Vistas and Vineyards

We were ready for an escape from Florida’s stifling heat and humidity and the Oregon coast seemed just the place for a change of pace. Why Oregon? We’ve never been there and difficult-to-come-by frequent flyer seats were available to Portland International Airport on short notice. Serendipity. Our goals were three-fold: Savor the dramatic scenery, Oregon’s seafood bounty and as many award-winning pinot noirs as time and tolerance permit. Some trips are destined to be perfect from start to finish. So it was with our vistas and vineyards journey, come along for a sample.

                                                   
Our sojourn began at the starting point of Highway 101, the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway in Astoria, Oregon. When it comes to preserving and sharing their coastal treasures, Oregon does it right. Around 80 state and national parks, recreation areas and scenic overlooks and nine historic lighthouses line Highway 101. Well-maintained hiking trails lead to quiet walks through lush forests. Each beach burg boasts a distinctive personality and pleasures. And, state statutes ensure public access to all Oregon beaches along the 363 mile coastline.

Astoria lays claim to the title of oldest settlement west of the Rockies. Charming Victorian-style home cling to the hillsides in a rainbow of colors. The 360˚ view from the Astoria Column atop Coxcomb Hill is the first of many photographic moments (must admit I did whine a bit about those 164 steps to the top). Also worth a visit in Astoria: The top-rated Columbia River Maritime Museum.

Next stop Seaside, 17 miles south. Unlike over-developed, cookie-cutter condo-lined shores, Seaside is an old-fashioned beach town. Life comes nice and easy here and a big day in town is a stroll along the oceanfront Promenade while munching saltwater taffy. On impulse, we picked up steamed crab and all the trimmings for a seafood feast at Bell Buoy Crab Company figuring we would stumble on the perfect picnic spot along the way.

Again, serendipity came through. Back on Highway 101 we spotted signs for Ecola State Park, just north of Cannon Beach. There’s much to be said about spreading out a picnic on a rocky crag hundreds of feet above the sea on a beautiful day. It is a sure cure for real-world doldrums. The weather gods were kind. We enjoyed a clear day with perfect picture-postcard views of famous Haystack Rock and “Terrible Tilly” lighthouse perched on an inaccessible rocky crag at sea. June seems to be a relatively dry month with minimal fog, mild temperatures and how humidity.

From Ecola it was just minutes to Cannon Beach. Thus far, this drive was much easier than anticipated; in spite of frequent signs warning of falling rocks, tsunami zones, elk and deer crossings, and S-curves. Of course, I am not the one doing the driving. My husband, Hank, is the intrepid driver.  We have been on the road almost four hours since leaving Portland and its still 112 miles to our bed and breakfast in Newport. Don’t think we missed many scenic overlooks, but time is flying and the going is slow.  Next trip, we would overnight in Cannon Beach at the romantic Stephanie Inn and spend a little down time on the beach, up-close-and-personal with Haystack Rock rather than pushing onward.

Leaving Cannon Beach, Highway 101 passes through the tiny bay-front communities of Manzanita, Wheeler and Garibaldi before turning inland through forests and farmland of Tillamook County. Now, the trip turned tedious for us. One S-curve after the other slowed our journey and the scenery changed from coastal views to farmland and cows. Cows outnumber people here. Tillamook is hyped as the home of Tillamook Cheese Factory with free tours and tastings. We got a quick view of the displays and production line and snagged a taste of two (minimal offerings) before getting back on the road. The factory and deli are very crowded, but it was an entertaining road break. It’s beginning to look like we won’t make happy hour in Newport unless we move along.

Outside Tillamook, follow the signs to detour west off Highway 101 along the Three Capes Scenic Loop that winds past three must-see-per-guidebooks state parks. First stop: Cape Meares State Park. Climb a measly 28 steps (what a relief) to the top of the beautifully restored Cape Meares Lighthouse. It may be the shortest lighthouse in Oregon, but perched on a bluff high above the sea, the view is mighty. It got our vote as a trip favorite. Next, we skipped the 2 1/2 mile hike at nearby Cape Lookout State Park and stopped at Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area. Time it right and you might catch sight of fishing dories launching right from the beach or barreling onto the beach at full speed in order to stop high up on the beach. It is a sight to behold.

Back on Hwy. 101, rolled into Lincoln City and we were officially on the Central Oregon Coast. Lincoln City, “the best kite-flying spot in North America.” Dozens of kites soared above the beach. If the drive is starting to get to you. Stay over at The Starfish Manor Hotel and spurge for a suite with an oceanfront balcony whirlpool to soak out the kinks. If you decide to hang out a while, buy a snazzy read-to-fly kite at Catch the Wind. Give Lady Luck a whirl at Chinook Winds Casino or shop for bargains at Tanger Outlet Center. After some debate, we decided to forge ahead and try to make Newport by 5 p.m. It’s only 25 miles away.  

Check back tomorrow for three days at Ocean House Bed & Breakfast.